Lucerne Old City Tour

After enjoying our new-found breakfast lifestyle, Day 3 started off with Andrea John giving us information on the history and political system of Switzerland. For those not familiar with it, the Swiss political system is strongly patterned on the American Constitution and Government, albeit with some modifications to suit their particular international situation.

Switzerland's Cantons

Swiss vote on everything - and often. Whatever laws are proposed, the Cantons must approve and that is done by mail and/or in-person votes by the citizens at the polls. If there is no majority by the Cantons, the law dies; if approved, it takes effect in the normal course of the schedule proposed in the bill. There are drawbacks as with any political system; however, the bright side of things, as it were, is the fact that there are consequences. Readily apparent is the system of approval by its citizens even though organizations and businesses may try to influence a particular proposal. In Switzerland, the people talk and the government listens.

One example of the independence exercised by the Cantons is that it took until 1971 for women to have voting rights country-wide, in part because of resistance from two of its smallest, most conservative Cantons.

Switzerland is well known for being staunchly neutral when it comes to international affairs, and despite pressure, does not participate in the European Union. However, this does not mean that the Swiss are not concerned with their own defense. Take a moment and look at the country through David's eyes. Those who know his background will gain some insight into its military history and present day standing.  In the early ages, young men of families often hired out to various clans, tribes and monarchs. To avoid combat with fellow countrymen, these paid conscripts came up with an emblem to distinguish themselves versus a member of opposing forces. Thus was born the Swiss white cross on a red background, now the country's national symbol.

While traveling, we did note the presence of the military. Numerous airfields dot valleys with widely spaced earthen covered bunkers for ammunition storage. Bridges carried wiring conduits which ended, apparently going nowhere. Pre-wired explosive charges. Small units practiced with their version of the Bradley Fighting Vehicle equipped with a 30mm cannon. Doors of various types are set into many mountainsides leading to caverns carved out for military defense.  Daily air patrols are flown to border limits by fixed and rotary wing aircraft.  In fact, during both World Wars, Germany was bluntly told that should they consider attacking Switzerland or through Switzerland that they would pay a terrible price. Their words were heeded by everyone; Switzerland remains neutral to this day. The embedded short video tells the story more completely (and gives you a quick preview of our future stop in Interlaken.)!

After our morning "class," we set out, following the duck, on our tour of the Old City of Lucerne.

Andrea pointed out the oldest house in the city, a wooden chalet so typical of Swiss architecture.

Next, we visited the "Lion Memorial" which pays tribute to those mercenary soldiers who were killed defending Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI during the French Revolution.

The translation is "Glacier Garden" and "Lion Memorial"

Probably the most iconic image of Lucerne is the Chapel Bridge which dates to the 14th century, although today's bridge is a restored version that was built when the old bridge was heavily damaged in a fire. The medieval paintings on the roof supports show the history of the city, but also reflect life's precariousness given the Black Plague with a series showing death visiting the citizens of the town, regardless of their station.

The highlight of our tour was our visit to the Jesuit Church, built in the late 17th century as part of the ongoing struggle for dominance between the Roman Catholic church and the Protestant Reformation. Of course, David's background at a Jesuit seminary made it of interest, and its Baroque elegance is stunning, but what really took our breath away was the accidental discovery that a choir was rehearsing in the sanctuary as we visited, and their voices filling the space were--literally--heavenly.

The Jesuit Church is on the left

Along the way, we caught a brief glimpse of a 19th century "Cyclorama" or Panorama painting. We live so close to Gettysburg, and are very familiar with that painting which depicts the famous battle during the American Civil War, but this painting is of an 1871 battle in which General Bourbaki and the French Army crossed the Swiss border during the German French War of 1870-71.

Our last stop of the morning was for lunch in a charming restaurant, Des Alpes, right along the Reuss River where we could catch our breath, enjoy some more delicious Swiss food, and get ready for our afternoon's trip to the top of Mount Rigi. 

That story will wait for another day, but we leave you with a nice overview of Lucerne's Old City.