"We will have four minutes for the transfer..."

The duck was up early on our fourth day preparing for our trip to the beautiful resort of Interlaken. First, a short briefing on Switzerland today and then we packed our box lunches before loading our luggage on the station shuttle. A short downhill walk and a bus ride married us up with our baggage on the train to the Brunig-Pass on the way to Brienz.

Our train ride was memorable for a number of reasons. First and foremost was the scenery through the ever changing and breathtaking countryside. Around every turn, a new vista opened on a valley or mountainside after changing trains down the line to the cog railway taking us over the mountain. Cameras clicking away at the call of "waterfall on the right," the train seemingly leaned in one direction and then another as we all sought to capture a memory. Of course there are always a few "wiseacres" in every group (David notwithstanding) who would call out "trees on the left" or some such nonsense to keep everyone in stitches laughing so hard.

We were also learning about another aspect of the Swiss character: the value of precision and timeliness. Andrea explained that we would have no more than four minutes to get ourselves AND our luggage off the train in Brienz before the train would pull away from the station. Having stacked our 60 large suitcases in the cargo area between the cars, David (being David) let his military organization kick in and enlisted three others to help, devised a battle plan, and set out to break what Andrea had told us was a Swiss tour record for unloading: a minute and a half. If we didn't beat the record, I'm sure we tied it!


Bags in hand and panting just a little, we boarded the Boat Brienz for a trip to Interlaken Ost, the easternmost train station in the village. Bright sun, a lake breeze and stops along the way (the boat is part of Swiss public transport) gave us photo opportunities and the ship's snack bar provided delicious coffee and pastries as we travelled. Waterfalls cascading into the lake and quaint houses, hotels and churches competed with sailboats and waves from folks along the shore. At the river connecting the two lakes (Lake Brienz and Lake Thun), the boat swung round and slowly backed under the bridge to the dock area.

Aboard the ship Brienz

Can you see the hotel?

A somewhat dangerous bridge to cross

Headed into Interlaken

Luckily, a van was available to take our bags to the hotel. The duck the led the way with commentary, "just a short walk - 10 minutes, mostly level" from the pier and through part of town. We were greeted, almost now as usual, by para gliders sailing off the mountain; an incline train to get to the top; wonderful old churches and neat, well kept homes along clean streets filled with friendly people.

Incline railway up and into the mountain

We also saw, for the first time, the Kleine Scheidegg glacier we would be visiting a few days later.

The glacier

Hotel Interlaken. Not our hotel!

Para Gliders landing in Interlaken

The Grandfather in the Mountain
If you look closely, you can see a face in the rock.

Our accommodations at Zentrum Artos were unique. Literally, the "Artos Center" is a combination retirement village, hotel, and church-related conference center. Sleek and modern, we felt as though we were staying overnight in an IKEA showroom! The center, as is characteristic of much of Switzerland, is committed to "green" technology. Lights are triggered by motion sensors and window blinds close automatically.

After getting our bags and rooms, a brief wine welcome left free time to explore the village, do a little shopping and enjoy a gelato before another exceptional evening meal followed by a presentation on the history of the Alps by Esther Gloor.

Of course, we all thought the Alps were a series of mountains. We were wrong. An "Alp" is a high mountain pasture to which Swiss cattle are taken during the summer months. And as we learned about the culture and traditions of these Alps, we also came to appreciate the threat to this culture from global climate change. Changes to the glaciers and the permafrost may cause catastrophic changes to Switzerland's economy and the Alpine way of life. It's no wonder the Swiss are so committed to green energy.

We would learn more about the country's plans to save energy later in the trip when we visited the site of the Gotthard Base Tunnel.

Mt. Rigi, Swiss Cows and Dinner on Lake Lucerne

When you set out to visit Switzerland, you think first of the Alps--the mountains. (Well, maybe chocolate. Cheese. Swiss Army knives.) Since arriving in Lucerne, we had taken every opportunity to stand on our hotel balcony and look at the mountains: Mt. Pilatus to our right, and Mt. Rigi on our left. We took endless pictures of the mountains.

Mt. Pilatus

Today, we would visit Mt. Rigi and finally get "up close and personal" with a Swiss mountain. Finishing our lunch on the Ruess, we walk to the train station, and take a train to Arth-Goldau, and then transfer to the Rigi Bahn, the oldest cog railway in Europe (1871). Stopping just short of the top, we get off the train to take an easy hike through the fields and countryside before re-connecting with a separate line going down the backside of the mountain, taking us along a different route and to Vitznau on Lake Lucerne.




The center "rail" is for the cog on the
 railcars which prevents gravity from taking over on the steep climb and descent.

We start our hike

The weather was perfect. Clear, warm but not hot. The view was everything we'd imagined. As the path wound around, we heard them before we saw them: The cow bells! 

As Swiss dairy farmers send their cattle up to higher pastures in the summer, they use the bells to help keep track of the cows. But they are also symbolic. In Alpine cow culture, the best cows get the biggest, most impressive bells. Some of the bells are enormous! And the gentle sound of 15 or 20 bells all ringing in harmony has to be heard to be appreciated. We will never forget it.

Along our walk, we came to a field where we were able to come very close to the cows, and take these photos and video. We concluded that this must be "the most famous cow in the world" as she has ended up in thousands of tourists' photo albums! She seemed quite content to let us add her to ours too!

Of course, we brought home a souvenir cow bell to remind us of the beautiful music made by Swiss cows!

After our leisurely hike, we came to the train station where we would ride the cog railway back down Mt. Rigi on our way to the lakeside and Vitznau. While we waited for the train, we had the chance to visit a lovely little chapel tucked into a grotto in the rock. The spring outside the entrance is said to have healing powers.

We caught our first glimpse of para-gliders soaring and drifting in the updrafts. David was ready to sign up; Peggy wasn't so sure! You will see them more clearly in the embedded video below.

In Vitznau, we were able to see the cars on the roundhouse turntable getting ready to turn around and head back up the mountain.

But it was time now to board a paddlewheel boat to return to Lucerne. The boat, which is actually a side-wheeler, is over 100 years old and well maintained. We enjoyed our catered dinner of fresh fish and salad aboard and had time to see the other activity on Lake Lucerne as we made our way back to downtown.

It had been a LONG day, and we had now only to grab the bus, and then take our "easy walk--10 minutes--no problem" up the switchback hill to Hotel Royal.

We had to pack up and get ready for our first transfer, as we were headed to Interlaken the next morning!

Today's trip: Lucerne to Mt. Rigi to Vitznau and then across the lake back to Lucerne.

View Larger Map

Lucerne Old City Tour

After enjoying our new-found breakfast lifestyle, Day 3 started off with Andrea John giving us information on the history and political system of Switzerland. For those not familiar with it, the Swiss political system is strongly patterned on the American Constitution and Government, albeit with some modifications to suit their particular international situation.

Switzerland's Cantons

Swiss vote on everything - and often. Whatever laws are proposed, the Cantons must approve and that is done by mail and/or in-person votes by the citizens at the polls. If there is no majority by the Cantons, the law dies; if approved, it takes effect in the normal course of the schedule proposed in the bill. There are drawbacks as with any political system; however, the bright side of things, as it were, is the fact that there are consequences. Readily apparent is the system of approval by its citizens even though organizations and businesses may try to influence a particular proposal. In Switzerland, the people talk and the government listens.

One example of the independence exercised by the Cantons is that it took until 1971 for women to have voting rights country-wide, in part because of resistance from two of its smallest, most conservative Cantons.

Switzerland is well known for being staunchly neutral when it comes to international affairs, and despite pressure, does not participate in the European Union. However, this does not mean that the Swiss are not concerned with their own defense. Take a moment and look at the country through David's eyes. Those who know his background will gain some insight into its military history and present day standing.  In the early ages, young men of families often hired out to various clans, tribes and monarchs. To avoid combat with fellow countrymen, these paid conscripts came up with an emblem to distinguish themselves versus a member of opposing forces. Thus was born the Swiss white cross on a red background, now the country's national symbol.

While traveling, we did note the presence of the military. Numerous airfields dot valleys with widely spaced earthen covered bunkers for ammunition storage. Bridges carried wiring conduits which ended, apparently going nowhere. Pre-wired explosive charges. Small units practiced with their version of the Bradley Fighting Vehicle equipped with a 30mm cannon. Doors of various types are set into many mountainsides leading to caverns carved out for military defense.  Daily air patrols are flown to border limits by fixed and rotary wing aircraft.  In fact, during both World Wars, Germany was bluntly told that should they consider attacking Switzerland or through Switzerland that they would pay a terrible price. Their words were heeded by everyone; Switzerland remains neutral to this day. The embedded short video tells the story more completely (and gives you a quick preview of our future stop in Interlaken.)!

After our morning "class," we set out, following the duck, on our tour of the Old City of Lucerne.

Andrea pointed out the oldest house in the city, a wooden chalet so typical of Swiss architecture.

Next, we visited the "Lion Memorial" which pays tribute to those mercenary soldiers who were killed defending Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI during the French Revolution.

The translation is "Glacier Garden" and "Lion Memorial"

Probably the most iconic image of Lucerne is the Chapel Bridge which dates to the 14th century, although today's bridge is a restored version that was built when the old bridge was heavily damaged in a fire. The medieval paintings on the roof supports show the history of the city, but also reflect life's precariousness given the Black Plague with a series showing death visiting the citizens of the town, regardless of their station.

The highlight of our tour was our visit to the Jesuit Church, built in the late 17th century as part of the ongoing struggle for dominance between the Roman Catholic church and the Protestant Reformation. Of course, David's background at a Jesuit seminary made it of interest, and its Baroque elegance is stunning, but what really took our breath away was the accidental discovery that a choir was rehearsing in the sanctuary as we visited, and their voices filling the space were--literally--heavenly.

The Jesuit Church is on the left

Along the way, we caught a brief glimpse of a 19th century "Cyclorama" or Panorama painting. We live so close to Gettysburg, and are very familiar with that painting which depicts the famous battle during the American Civil War, but this painting is of an 1871 battle in which General Bourbaki and the French Army crossed the Swiss border during the German French War of 1870-71.

Our last stop of the morning was for lunch in a charming restaurant, Des Alpes, right along the Reuss River where we could catch our breath, enjoy some more delicious Swiss food, and get ready for our afternoon's trip to the top of Mount Rigi. 

That story will wait for another day, but we leave you with a nice overview of Lucerne's Old City.